Sewing the Yukata

Preparation for making the Yukata

01.Tools necessary for Japanese dressmaking & Instructions
02.Kimono Techniques and Terminology

Needles

Needle	Needle pad	Thread
Thimble	Measure	Ruler
Scissors	Spatula	Kakehari device and hemstitching stand
Cardboard pattern	Marking board	Iron and trowel type
Ironing board	Rolls

There are Meriken needles and Wabari, Japanese (Gold ear) needles, for hand-stitching. Meriken is a Western-type needle that came from the United States, while Wabari has traditionally been used in Japan. Meriken needles are numbered from 4 to 9, with numbers that grow larger as it gets thinner. In general, it is said that Meriken needles are for general dressmaking and Wabari are for Japanese dressmaking, but choose whichever is easier on the selected cloth. There are two types of hand-sewing needles used in Japanese dressmaking, namely sewing needles and blind stitching needles. There are traditional names such as "Oh Guke" and "Yon-no-yon" for Wabari. As shown in the table, the first Chinese numeral indicates the thickness of the needle and the needle becomes thinner as the number grows. The appropriate thickness of the needle is largely determined by the fabric. Needles for cotton are used in making the yukata. The second Chinese numeral indicates the length of the needle. The larger the number, the longer the needle. Choose the length of needle according to the type of sewing.

Table 1. Types of Needles (Unit: mm) Needle Types For Cotton Thickness For Silk Thickness Length Short hand San no ichi (3-1) 0.71 Yon no ichi (4-1) 0.56 33.3   San no ni (3-2) Yon no ni (4-2) 36.4   San no san (3-3) Yon no san (4-3) 39.4 Long hand San no yon (3-4) Yon no yon (4-4) 42.4   San no go (3-5) Yon no go (4-5) 45.5   Tyu guke Kinu guke 51.5   Oh guke Sode guke 54.5   Momen-erisime Kinu erisime   Machine Number 11 0.4   0.36 38.1

	To select a sewing needle with an appropriate length (in the case of short hand), hold the needle with a thumb and a forefinger as shown in the figure, and place the needle end on the thimble. Choose the needle that sticks out 3-4mm from the tip of the naturally extended thumb.