Preparation for making the Yukata
02.Kimono Techniques and Terminology
| Kise | Kise is a tiny buffer zone left around the seamwhen the seam is turned opened to hide the stitch line instead of opening the seams right at the stitching line. It is called making kise: "Kise wo kakeru" |
| French seam | This is a method to stitch a trimmed edge into a bag shape. With the wrong side together, stitch the cloth together along 3 mm from the end of the trimmed edge. Turn it inside out, arrange it in "kenuki-awase", and then stitch it along the marking. |
| Wrong side together | Two cloths are placed together with the right sides facing out when it is 'wrong side together'. |
| Right side together | Two cloths are placed together with the right sides facing inside when it is 'right side together'. |
| Kenuki-awase | In this method of finishing the edge of the clothes, the kise are evenly aligned at the folded ends of the two cloths just like the tip of the tweezers (Kenuki). |
| Ningyou | The lower part of the sleeve seams, Ningyou, are stitched closed on men's yukata. (The Furi opening part on women's sleeves) |
| Tsuma-saki | The hem line for the corner part of the Okumi panel. |
| Half-backstitich | Take one stitch forward, take one backwards half the length of the first stitch, carry forward twice the length of the first stitch to bring the needle up again, and then take a stitch back half the length of the first stitch again. It is a method of stitching forward and backwards repeatedly to obtain a strong hand stitching result. |
| Flat fell seam or welt seam | Fold the cloth at about 1 cm from the cut edge, then stitch together with a small needle on the right side of cloth at an interval of about 1 cm. |
| Uneven slipstitch | Fold the cloth edge exactly in three folds and slipstitch at 1 cm intervals. Your needle should pass through between the folded layers of the hem so that most of the thread is hidden, dipping outward to make a tiny stitch through to the right side of the fabric, and then returning under the fold. Make sure not to stitch right on the tip of the crease on the folded edge of the hem. |
| Return stitching | To secure steadiness of the Kise and stitches, turn the cloth 180 degrees and make one small return stitch on the top fabric and the seam allowance to avoid it from shifting. |
| Selvage edge slipstitch | It is a sewing method used for settling the seam allowance on the sides and the Okumi-tsuke. Bring the small needle out 2 to 3 mm from the edge of the cloth, and stitch 2 mm on the wrong side, 1 mm on the right side, 2 mm on the wrong side again. Pass through the folds in between the stitches. Depending on the size of the seam allowance, stitch 1.5 cm to 3 cm apart. |
| Even slipstitch | Fold the seam allowance, and stitch 1 to 2 mm below the folded line to the other side at intervals of 5 to 7 mm making sure the stitches do not slant. |
| Loop knots | Run the needle through a very small stitch, make a loop at the end of the thread, and then pull the needle through the knot to tighten the thread. The knot anchors the thread firmly on the fabric without being bulky and is used for the start of the hand stitching on the collar tips and on the ends of sleeve attachments. |
| Scoop knots | Scoop a small diagonal stitch at the end of the stitching, make a loop over the needle with the thread and pull the needle through to tighten the thread. The knot is used for steady anchoring of the thread on wrist openings, joints between sleeves and bodices and underarm openings. It is also used for the start of the hand stitching. |
| Weaver's Knot | A weaver's knot joins two threads together in a knot and allows you to continue stitching on baste, selvage edge slipstitch and binding. For detailed instructions, refer to the page on side seams and finishing. |