Sewing the Yukata

Preparation for making the Yukata

07.Measurement

Measurements for items Height Hip Yuki*
Measurements for fabric roll Roll width Total length  

Yuki*: the width of the shoulder plus sleeve, or the distance from the center of the neck to the wrist

Calculation for Marking Measurements : female
The length of the sleeves height×1/3
The length of wearing Actual measurement or height×85/100
The length of body panel The length of wearing + 25~30cm=Height
Shoulder width Yuki×1/2 - 1cm
Sleeve width Yuki×1/2 + 1cm
Wrist opening Height>150cm : 23 cm  Height<150cm : 21cm
The length of joint between sleeve and body Normally 23cm : Smaller if the Obi sash is to be worn at a high position
Underarm opening Height - Joint between sleeve and body
Neck opening  
The length of neck opening line moved backwards from the shoulder line  
Okumi tip point Normally 23cm : 2cm shorter for those with bigger breasts
Length from base of collar to hemline Height<150cm : Height×1/2(=*)
150≤Height<160cm : *+2~3cm
Height≥160cm : *+4~6cm
Body width Hip×1.5
Back panel width (Body width × 1/2 – Width of the front strips + 5cm) × 1/2
Front panel width Back panel width – 5cm
Width of the front strips  
Aizuma width Width of the front strips - 1.5cm
Bachi eri width
(Center of the bachi eri length)
bachi eri
Bachi eri width
(Tip positoin of the bachi eri)
bachi eri

Calculation for Marking Measurements: male
The length of the sleeves The length of joint between sleeve and body + Ningyou (about 10cm)
The length of wearing Actual measurement or height×84/100
The length of body panel Actual measurement or height×84/100
Shoulder width Yuki - Sleeve width
Sleeve width Yuki×1/2+1cm
Wrist opening Sleeve length×1/2+2cm
The length of joint between sleeve and body Height×1/4 - 2cm
Ningyou  
Neck opening Standard : 8.5cm  Overweight body : 9.0cm
Okumi tip point Standard : 21cm  Overweight body : 19cm
Length from base of collar to hemline The length of wearing×1/2~The length of wearing×1/2 - 2cm
Body width Hip×1.5
Front hip width Hip×1/2 - 7cm
Back panel width (Hip - Front hip width)/2+3cm
Front panel width Front hip width - Width of the front strips3
Width of the front strips 96cm>hip : 15cm
96cm≤hip≤99cm : 15.5cm
100cm≤hip : 16cm
Aizuma width  
Collar width Height≥170cm : 6.0cm
Back tuck position Same as sleeve length
Front tuck position Back tuck position + 4cm
Tuck volume (Cutout length of body panel) - ( The length of wearing + Hem2cm)

Calculation for Cutout Measurements
Cutout Measurement Calculation Method
Sleeve bottom seam allowance 2~3cm
Cutout sleeve length The length of the sleeves+ Sleeve bottom seam allowance
Body bottom hem 2cm
Cutout length of body panel for female Body bottom hem 2cm + Height+ The length of neck opening line moved backwards from the shoulder line
Cutout length of body panel for men The length of wearing + Tuck volume + Body bottom hem 2cm
Okumi tip point seam allowance Cutout Okumi length - Okumi length
Cutout Okumi tip point Okumi tip point - Okumi tip point seam allowance
Cutout Okumi length Cutout length of body panel - Cutout Okumi tip point
Collar tip seam allowance 3~5cm
Cutout collar length The length of body panel - the length from base of collar to hemline + the Neck opening + looseness(1) + the collar tip seam allowance
Cutout reinforcement collar length Cutout Okumi length×2 - Cutout collar length
Cutout Neck opening Neck opening + center back seam allowance(1)
Seam allowance below the length from base of collar to hemline 1.5~2㎝
Okumi attachment seam allowance Cutout Okumi width - Okumi width
Cutout Okumi width Okumi width+Seam allowance below the length from base of collar to hemline + Okumi attachment seam allowance
collar seam allowance The roll width - Cutout Okumi width - the collar width (Center of the collar length) ×2
Cutout collar width the collar width×2 + Collar attachment seam allowance(1) + Collar seam allowance
Required total length Cutout sleeve length×4+ Cutout length of body panel×6 - Cutout Okumi tip point×2
Extra length Total length of the roll - Required total length

Excel download for female

Excel download for male

© Bunka Fashion Research Institute・Joint Research Center for Fashion and Clothing Culture-20014 :"The education program for the cultural folklore and for the transmission of "Kimono" culture"